Vegeterian Vegan Surviving Guide2009-08-20 At first glance Istanbul is not a particularly vegetarian or vegan-friendly city, because the Turks love meat. At every street corner there are kebab stands and it can happen that you even find pieces of chicken in your pudding. The good news on the other hand, is that as a vegeterian or vegan you can eat well in Istanbul. Where and how you will learn from us. Eating at home This has two advantages. First its cheaper and second you know exactly what will land on your plate. In the small vegetable shops in the side streets you will find a huge selection of fresh fruits and vegetables. Their taste is not only exceptionally good, but they are also very inexpensive. For vegetables and fruits it is recommended to buy in small vegetable shops, rather than in the supermarkets.  A specialty of Turkey are the nut shops throughout the city. Here you will find a huge selection of all kind of nuts, in all possible variants such as roasted, fried in batter, or in balls. The prices per kilo are not particularly favorable. So it can be cheaper to buy a ready mix in the supermarket instead, which tastes just as good.  As the water pipelines in Turkey are often outdated and rusty it is not recommended to use the water from the tap for drinking or cooking. Even Turks use bottled water, that one can get in 19 liter jugs for the price of 5 liras, including tip. You comfortably order by phone and the vendor brings the water directly in front of the door. The national drink of the Turks is ayran, a yogurt, water, salt mixture. Almost as much as Yogurt Turks love cheese, which you can find in the supermarket shelves en masse. As the authors of this blog are vegan, we can not recommend specific cheese. We have, however, been told that the goat cheese should taste good. As a vegan spread there is humus, and as a sweet spread we recommend hazelnut butter.  Eating outside Even if the dishes seem to be vegetarian they often contain fish sauce or meat sauce. As turkish sellers are exceptionally friendly people, they are always working hard to accommodate their costumers. However, if you ask whether a dish contains some meat and it is clear that you are a tourist it is highly probable that you will be told what they think you want to hear, even if it is a beef stew. Therefore, here's a tip: If you're not sure, ask in a tone as if you absolutely want to have meat. So something like this: "Oh, this bean dish has meat inside, right?" If not, the seller will say no with a very regretful tone and you will buy the meal with sympathetic glance and sigh. (This seems contradictory, but its true!) Here are three restaurants in which you can get some of the best dishes in Istanbul: In the category of fast food the prize goes to Borsa Restaurant close to Taksim Square. Similar to the canteen in a university, you choose from different dishes, buffet style. Especially recommended are the white beans in tomato sauce with rice and salad and of course Bulgur, a kind of millet.   Meals come with unlimited free bread. The prices are very moderate. A portion of beans costs 3.50 lira (1.70 Euro), portion of rice = 3,00 Lira and a salad = 3,00 Lira. In the categories of home-made family style food we recommend the Ücüncü Mevki restaurant on Ogut street, behind the Aga Cami mosque near Istiklal street. This restaurant consists entirely of a single room with very delicious food. There are no waiters. You just get the menu card, write your choice on a piece of paper, go down the stairs and give it to the person in the kitchen. Your meal is sent up in a small elevator. When you have finished you go down and pay. The portions are, like everything in this restaurant, rather small. In general, one orders several dishes and eats something from each of the plates. Another very recommendable family restaurant is Helvetia (General Yazgan Sok:12, Asmali Mescit, Beyoglu), near Tunel. Here they have all homemade and fresh food at reasonable prices. The waiters are very friendly and the atmosphere is always relaxed.
We hope you found this guide helpful. If you know any other good places or have questions, just leave a comment in our blog. |
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